Longboard Bushings

Common shapes include barrel, cone, stepped and double barrel. Barrel bushings provide a stable, all-around feel. Cone bushings offer easier turning and carve. Stepped bushings combine characteristics, giving progressive resistance and rebound.

Softer bushings (78A–88A) compress easily, making the board carve more with less effort. Harder bushings (90A–98A) offer stability at higher speeds and are preferred for downhill. Match durometer to your weight for optimal responsiveness—heavier riders can use higher durometer bushings without feeling stiff.

The bushing seat is the recess in the hanger where the bushing sits. A deep seat restricts bushing movement, creating stability. A shallow or open seat allows more movement and turns. Choosing bushings that fit your truck’s seat optimally ensures consistent behaviour.

Yes. Many riders use a barrel bushing on the bottom (closest to the baseplate) for stability and a cone or stepped bushing on top for easier turning. Mixing shapes customizes ride feel.

Washers sit above or below bushings. Cupped washers cradle the bushing, limiting its movement and increasing rebound. Flat washers allow more compression, leading to looser turning. Wedge washers have angled edges that align bushings in slanted seats.

Tighten until the bushings eliminate wobble but still allow desired turn range. Over-tightening can crush bushings and hamper performance. Adjust in small increments, checking how the board feels under weight.

Replace when they crack, develop permanent compression set or lose rebound. Frequent downhill or freeride sessions compress bushings faster than casual cruising. Inspect them regularly for wear.

Indirectly. Softer bushings allow deeper turns, increasing wheel bite risk. Adjust your bushing setup and consider riser pads or wheel wells to prevent wheels from contacting the deck during turns.